Beijing together. Brianna and me.

As my timeAnothe

Bri and I at The Hutong, making & eating Chinese food

Thinking about our time together, I feel blessed. To be able to share such a wonderful adventure with both my children, has been an incredible experience. One I will treasure.

However, I am extremely surprised to realize I have grown rather attached to China . . . . this brash, confusing, contradictory, creative & exciting place.

So much creativity . . . . .

I look around and am continuously blown away by the talent, creativity, ingenuity and sheer audacity of the multi faceted inhabitants.

Throughout our journey, just when I think I am over the pushing, jabbering, grey haze of pollution, traffic and sheer size and rate of expansion . . . I turn a corner and am confronted by someone whose generosity and humor confounds me, or an environmental panorama that takes my breath away. I do think being an artist is a big advantage. I tend to scrutinize the construction, detailing and placing of things that many confess they do not acknowledge, witness, comprehend or see at all. (This process can be annoying as a short journey may take hours. . . . . . ) 

Peeling paint, layered patterning, constructed landscaping, the juxtaposition of shadows silhouetted on a path, all are cause for pause, examination and reflection. China is an ideal place for exploration, especially if you have time. The unexpected appearance of a huge paper cut-out design under a bridge. The stenciling of images on abandoned buildings, the appearance of sculptures at every turn. I often watch people walking past all these installations without any outward sign of recognition, and I'm bamboozled.

So much talent, unobserved?
In Brisbane I would have to walk through GOMA ensuring I witness each and every item, to see anywhere near as much as I can see just walking down a suburban main street in Beijing.

I am incredulous of the changes this county has experienced - is experiencing. 

In 2002 and 2007 we travelled through the major cities, to see the major tourist highlights. We saw a country in change and opening to all and any possibility. Now only 4 years since our last visit, the changes are incredible. 

No more grey communist garments.

Not the open fear of exposure.

Not hiding their ideas or emotions . . .  I hope it stays this way?

One of many Very large Paper Cuts behind glass under bridge.

We saw people holding hands and even kissing openly. 

We witnessed consumerism being all consuming. 

We saw the outward benefits of a new wave of 'liberal communism' 

(Sort of what we would consider entrepreneurial . . . capitalist . . .or plain in your face avaricious money making? Some good, some questionable)

Creative architecture everywhere

Through out my long stay, I have listened to a lot of criticism from numerous foreign individuals ( the blatant production of pollution, the over- consumption, the one child policy collapsing, the want,want,want of the people . . . ) and though I thought about their opinions and had to believe that they were observing obvious trends - I could not help but be sympathetic with the way things are going. After the 'so long without' still in daily dialogue and current memory, I think the need to want and the want to desperately need, would be extremely hard to resist. The swift rush from Cultural revolution to consumerism is surreal.Everywhere you look there is change.
Everywhere there is construction. There is planting of expansive parks.
Everywhere that something is changed a cultural installation or sculpture is installed.
Water park and out door movies in our local  shopping center . . . Cool !! We spend many nights here eating ice-cream and people watching.

The people know what they have missed, they know what they  want. And who can blame them for wanting it all - now.

Everywhere we go, they are making small steps toward rehabilitation. Electric bikes, wind fans & solar power to generate electricity. Planting of trees along every road and parks everywhere. The law to stop public spitting and the one child policy . . . . .the list goes on and on.

YES! I do wish her good management and good luck in the future.

Art in Beijing

Prior to making this trip to China, I decided I would apply to attend an art residency in Beijing, to coincide with Brianna doing her 12 month university degree at Fudan and Shandong.
I was thrilled to be accepted for a Residency at Red Gate for August, September 2011 or January, February, March 2012

Red Gate Residency has been working to develop an initiative to bring innovative individuals working on socially and environmentally responsible projects to Beijing. 

The Red Gate program offers the time and space to work in a studio environment with local and international artists. There is a competitive application process with two main deadlines a year for six, two to three month residencies. 

Red Gate assists all participants to connect with the art scene, meet local Chinese artists and source art materials.
So of course we had to visit the Red Gate Gallery. http://www.redgategallery.com/location This incredible space has an exhibiting factor of ‘wow’. We met the director, who was charming, informative and in my good books, as he gifted me with a beautiful red bound collection of exhibiting artist's works ...what is there not to love?

We were taken to Feijiacun, to the Beigao studio compound to meet the director Ms Zehui, who is helping Crystal with the Red Gate residency program. We were shown the impressive studios and met some of the very talented residing artists.

However, after serious consideration, I decided that the first option of one month for September 2011 was too short a time to immerse myself in any serious body of work (and interrupted my stay with Brianna) and the second choice was smack bang in winter.( I know I would not be able to endure the extreme cold of a typical Beijing winter) 

I have been granted permission to re apply for another date.
So we decided to continue with the ART theme, with a visit to the innovative and exciting

798 Art District, at Dashanzi.

There are sooooooo many studios to look through.
White space Beijing, Beijing Tokyo Art project, Art Scene Beijing ...

798 photo Beijing and The Long March space are all worth a visit.

There are book shops, cafés and nik nak shops a plenty.
You could spend days at this sprawling feisty art hub.
Oh! Yahhhh! We did eat some seriously tasty food in some very funky café environs, while observing some fascinating behavior by the attending crowds. . . . .

Yep! Great stuff!!

We soaked up lots of inspirational ideas and left with a renewed desire to get on with some serious CREATING !!!!

What more could one ask for???

We will return.

Variety - the spice of life

Market tours. And day to day shopping.

Food glorious food . . .that’s what we live for.

Yah! I know, that is so incorrect and unfashionable, but here in China it is so acceptable. Beijing cuisine can be summed up as the distillation of, the creations of, generations of Imperial chefs over almost a millennium. . . .

By 1271 with the arrival of Kublai Khan Beijing was made the center of the Empire, importing elements and influences from a variety of sources; amongst them was the Mongolian influence – lamb roasting and the Hot Pot. Each province throughout China provided the Capital with ingredients. Shandong (as the birthplace of Confucius generally being regarded as the oldest) was one of the most important agricultural producers, with numerous fisheries and farms which supplied Beijing with most of its food. Tianjin its capital is a treaty port, resulting in the added influences from the Russian & Japanese.

Now you tell me how all that could not result in a cuisine that is varied and delicious. It's also one that encourages the attitude of, if you don’t like that dish, there are a 1,000 more to try!!!

Ready to cook our lunch

Pulling noodles with chicken and vegetables, at The Hutong cooking school

The ancient Chinese kept pigs and grew millet, wheat, barley, rice and fermented their grain to make alcoholic beverages. Around 1100BC they added Soya bean which was soon followed by soy sauce and bean curd (tofu). . . . .

Element fresh, Sanlitun smoothie - kiwi fruit, orange and blueberry. Ice-cream bomb.

Now 2011, there has been the introduction of fast food and dairy outlets: potato chips, smoothies, hamburgers, ice cream, pizza and various variations on numerous Western/European themes. (Not to mention, diabetes and cardiovascular disease)

- Liulichang street tea house. Buddhas tears tea and clear vegetable & noodle soup.

So yes it has taken a few years, but you have to agree that the influences to date have produced some extremely delicious and varied meals of which we have sampled, Peking duck, Mu Shu Pork, lamb and scallion, Mongolian Hot Pot, Sweet and sour fish, drunken empress chicken, Sichuan pepper with green beans, steamed dumplings, noodle soup, chips with ketchup, pizza, mango smoothies, cold stone ice-cream - with numerous add ins, and hot candied apple & strawberries ... to mention but a few. Oh! And deep fried scorpions.

Chinese chicken Hot Pot - and it was very HOT!

So in this cosmopolitan city we have discovered that there is never a shortage of variety.

It is never boring.

2011 Drawing in Beijing

While Bri is away I am finding things to do . . . .
I decided to take myself off for Life Drawing classes, something I have not done for YEARS.
I emailed The Hutong and booked a session for myself and Brianna when she returns. My first class will start at 7.30pm.
I walked out of my apartment building not knowing which way I was going.
I stood on the side of the road with a copy of the address and hailed a taxi. At this point, the idea that a detailed map of Beijing would be a good idea, crossed my mind.
I was lucky to have a young man take sympathy and without a shared langue manage to explain to the driver where I wanted to go, and to have a driver who was honest, friendly and able to drop me close to the train station. Exiting the train, I found myself standing on the side of a major cross road, not knowing which way to go, until a nice young man took pity on me and without any verbal communication directed me to the hutong entry.

It is so very easy to get lost in the warrens that are the Hutongs

Being early I stopped at a cafe, Grandmas Kitchen, for apple pie and coffee. Yah!, not your usual Chinese fair, but something left over from the French, which I certainly appreciated .

Finally I arrive at the door for The Hutong cooking and art center. A place founded by creative Australians who live in Beijing. There were a dozen individuals all from varied backgrounds. There were easels, a generous supply of great paper, charcoal and a male model from Finland. (He looked awfully familiar, but as he was naked I was not about to ask if we had met before.)

After 90 minutes we had a break. Red wine and lots of talking.

Then I had to ask.

(He  had modeled at BIA in Brisbane? Was travelling the world.) 

We did several 3 minute warm up drawings, a few 5 minute ones and then some that were 15 minute poses. Half time through the second half we had a break and I managed to talk to people from South Africa, Sweden, Mongolia and said Hi, to the other people attending.


The time went all too quickly. 9.30pm arrived and I was just feeling like I was finding my stride.
Now I was filled with trepidation . . . it was dark and I had to find my way out of the maze.

Looking hesitant, yet again! a young girl took pity on me and offered to walk me back to the main street. (I am so very thankful to all the generous souls I have encountered during my stay. I would have been so lost without them)
Standing on the side of the main crossroad I was not sure which way I was meant to go . . . so my beautiful young companion hailed me a cab, told the driver my address and waved me goodbye. Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou!

Arriving at my apartment complex, I did my nighttime shopping for water, fruit and bread, had an evening meal of pumpkin deep fried in egg white (like sweet chips with a crisp tempura coating), a mango smoothie . . . then made my way to my apartment.
It was a great introduction that confirmed my passion to draw. 

Once I reached my apartment I sat down and emailed to make further bookings. Will do some cooking classes and visit some markets and gardens.

Hutongs, Smog and People

Café on first floor of our apartment complex - very modern

Mango and Berry smoothies are the best. As are the tempura sweet potato chips.

While Brianna is in North Korea I decided I would take myself off to explore some of the areas close to our apartment, (thus avoiding the long taxi drives in bad traffic, with the possibility of a driver that wants to make a wee bit more money, taking me on a very long, long, long drive)

Love the doors. Attention to detail.
 Even with these limitations I have found some gorgeous parks, great shopping and stepping off the main roads, a maze of Hutongs.

Shopping . . . .all the Big Brand Names

Beautiful parks and community areas

At first glance Beijing appears like a very modern city, however you can still find the city’s alleyways (Hutongs) weaving across most of central Beijing. These were formally the houses of the well to do, officials or prostitutes.

The modernization & increasing population within Beijing has destroyed many traditional Sibeyuan (courtyard houses within the hutongs). With few opportunities for work in the countryside, tens of millions are moving to the cities in search of a better life.
As space became an issue additional buildings have filled in the area traditionally open as a leafy quiet courtyard in the middle of most structures.. Several families may now live within an area once designed for only one family.

Traditional Inner courtyard

Living in poor conditions, dissatisfaction is widespread and increasing with regards to corruption, pollution, environmental degradation, and the expensive rise in the cost of living.

However, if you don’t dwell on the social inadequacies and want an interesting afternoon, wandering around the hutongs looking into the Sibeyuan, is a fascinating way to spend some time.

I was amazed at how often I felt like I was back in Italy . . . .the flecks of layered paint, decorative wood paneling and detail to architecture. . . .

As population growth drives a consumer boom, China’s energy needs are fast outstripping its capacity and a major expansion of its network of coal-fired generating stations is planned. When China is already the planet’s biggest polluter – resulting in an atmosphere that is almost furry enough to stroke, you wonder what the end result will be?

Coal blocks used for heating and cooking - continuously polluting the air

I cleaned the air conditioner when we first arrived in our apartment, and only weeks into our stay, I am amazed at the thick layer of sooty debris that is coating the vents.

Yuckkkkkkkkkkkk!

 It's no wonder that the city has many gorgeous parks that are widely used for social gathering, exercising & gambling.

Open green areas are artificially created and well maintained