Shanghi to Beijing then onto Jinan - an adventure 2011

Brianna on Boat on the lake of Summer Palace, Beijing 2007. . .  Beijing 2011

Brianna started this journey in China, in Shanghai at the University of Fudan, in January 2011.

I joined Arron and Brianna in July, to have a few months exploring Beijing. 

We had a fascinating time in this eclectic city. The Summer palace, Forbidden city, Peking duck, food markets, outer town and cities . . . The list goes on and on. 

It's amazing what you can fit into 24 hours of each day, when your days are not enough . . .

and when are they ever enough???

Arron had to return to Brisbane after 4 weeks travelling with Brianna to various destinations, and time with Bri and I in Beijing. I would have enjoyed having more time with Arron, but such is life . . . .and what we did share was extremely enjoyable.

Arron on the Great Wall of China. Brianna pounding peanuts. Arron drinking yogurt. Brianna on the Great Wall of China.

Arron in Food Night Markets Beijing. Brianna with Fairy Floss Man. 

Peking Duck night out- what a night out!! The thrice cooked fish was divine.

We visited The Great Wall of China, The Summer Palace, The Forbidden city. We ventured outside Beijing to Pingyao located in the central of Shanxi Province. Known as one of the 'Four Best Preserved Ancient Cities' in China and listed under UNESCO

We visited the Summer residence of Qing emperors, Chengde. Its a five hour train ride north-east of Beijing. For over 100 years the emperor and their retinues passed the summer months here. The gardens and architecture are stunning.

We visited Cuandixia. A nice old mountain village east of Beijing.

We went here, there, and not everywhere ... but almost!

I am extremely grateful to have spent this time with my children. The exotic locations and the sights we have seen, have been incredible. 

Can I ever say thankyou too often ? Thank you! thank you, thank you ...

   

  

During our stay at the Beijing apartment Brianna took a trip across to North Korea, leaving me alone for a week . . . . if your interested in North Korea her blog is www.poiseonarrows.blogspot.com.au a very good read.

After 10 fabulous weeks exploring, experiencing, and being decadent in Beijing, and her surrounding provinces, it is time to move onto the Shandong province, to deposit Brianna into her New University.

We caught the fast train which recorded its fastest time during our journey as 367 km hour.

I thought the bullet train in Japan was fast. Now I know what fast is.

The journey from Beijing to Shanghai took us 4 hours. The one from Beijing to Jinan was only less than 2 hours. 

Incredible! 

Safe? Who knows ... but we made it!

Cake creations at the LOcal bakery?  . . .Modern shopping centers. . . .

Brianna in her room at the University of Shandong.

Jinan is an interesting city. We did not spy another European face in the first 3 days. Considering it's size and beauty, you wonder why more people do not visit this area. This region is the origin of 700 plus fresh water springs. This copious water supply flows into water ways, lakes and fountains throughout the city. They are well maintained and the lighting of an evening is spectacular.

Outside mammoth, modern shopping center, Jinan. Brianna in University of Shandong, Jinan.  Brianna and  Me exploring Jinan at night.

The shopping is a mix of old, and extremely modern, mammoth structures housing all the expensive and desirable commodities out of Italy and France!I have a feeling that before too long we will not be able to afford to shop in China!

I felt comfortable knowing Brianna is in Jinan. The pace is a BIT slower, the traffic less hectic and the sheer size less daunting. Yes!, it is a NICE 'little' place!!

Through out my visit, I kept wondering what the main differences are between Australia and China?

Why does it feel so foreign?

 Yeah! Yeah! I know the different nationality of the inhabitants is a certain give away!!And the architecture, and the obviously Grey vs Blue skies . . . but there is something else.

 

After my travels, I think I have nailed one of the variances that makes it obviously different.
In Australia we tend to have extremely structured and strict building codes and policies that protect areas from being 'different'. 
Well, I don't think the government has initiated these strict codes in China . . . .

Walking anywhere, you will find a children's toy and clothing shop next to a sex shop, which rubs shoulders with the local bakery . . . . moving right along you'll find a very expensive boutique which derives it's aroma from the open sewerage drains that flow between it and the semi demolished hutong.

Yep! It is this juxtaposition of such variances that causes us foreigners to feel uneasy.

I talked to a lot of foreign visitors (while attending art classes at the The Hutong, and doing the cooking classes etc.) and it seems that you either love this or hate it . . . there is vary little room for nonchalance. I found at first it unsettled me. 

Why have an exquisite shop or boutique Hostel next to a smelly old crumbling food outlet? . . . . a fascinating, modern Art gallery in a dark labyrinth of an alleyways. An exquisite, meditative garden next to a market district lit with the most incredible neon lights . . 

But after awhile I did not find this disturbing. However, I am well aware of the positive differences, that being able to communicate with the local people - speaking their language makes. Just being in Beijing by myself for the week, while Brianna was in North Korea was a slight night mare. Hoping into a taxi was fraught with dangers, ordering a meal off an all Chinese menu an adventure, getting lost a firm reality.

But ! and However ! I must categorize myself as, 'loving the strangeness' of the place.

I know I will find Brisbane plain and under whelming.

I will find the sameness and slowness claustrophobic.

Initially, I will look for something new and unpredictable, without success. Brisbane is like a well manicured garden, with predictable pathways and water features signed and fenced. Nothing is left to explore, with an adventurers heart or a soul that craves something different.

However, like most humans I will adapt and eventually appreciate the orderliness of the roads, the ability to be able to read and understand most signs, the sameness of quality, and the Blue skies. The quietness and the safety.

Yep! Home will certainly be a LOT different . . .

For one thing, I will miss my daughter! But, I would never want her to miss out on such an incredible adventure.

"You Go Girl" 

We will be here when you get back. Enjoy! X

Art in Beijing

Prior to making this trip to China, I decided I would apply to attend an art residency in Beijing, to coincide with Brianna doing her 12 month university degree at Fudan and Shandong.
I was thrilled to be accepted for a Residency at Red Gate for August, September 2011 or January, February, March 2012

Red Gate Residency has been working to develop an initiative to bring innovative individuals working on socially and environmentally responsible projects to Beijing. 

The Red Gate program offers the time and space to work in a studio environment with local and international artists. There is a competitive application process with two main deadlines a year for six, two to three month residencies. 

Red Gate assists all participants to connect with the art scene, meet local Chinese artists and source art materials.
So of course we had to visit the Red Gate Gallery. http://www.redgategallery.com/location This incredible space has an exhibiting factor of ‘wow’. We met the director, who was charming, informative and in my good books, as he gifted me with a beautiful red bound collection of exhibiting artist's works ...what is there not to love?

We were taken to Feijiacun, to the Beigao studio compound to meet the director Ms Zehui, who is helping Crystal with the Red Gate residency program. We were shown the impressive studios and met some of the very talented residing artists.

However, after serious consideration, I decided that the first option of one month for September 2011 was too short a time to immerse myself in any serious body of work (and interrupted my stay with Brianna) and the second choice was smack bang in winter.( I know I would not be able to endure the extreme cold of a typical Beijing winter) 

I have been granted permission to re apply for another date.
So we decided to continue with the ART theme, with a visit to the innovative and exciting

798 Art District, at Dashanzi.

There are sooooooo many studios to look through.
White space Beijing, Beijing Tokyo Art project, Art Scene Beijing ...

798 photo Beijing and The Long March space are all worth a visit.

There are book shops, cafés and nik nak shops a plenty.
You could spend days at this sprawling feisty art hub.
Oh! Yahhhh! We did eat some seriously tasty food in some very funky café environs, while observing some fascinating behavior by the attending crowds. . . . .

Yep! Great stuff!!

We soaked up lots of inspirational ideas and left with a renewed desire to get on with some serious CREATING !!!!

What more could one ask for???

We will return.

Variety - the spice of life

Market tours. And day to day shopping.

Food glorious food . . .that’s what we live for.

Yah! I know, that is so incorrect and unfashionable, but here in China it is so acceptable. Beijing cuisine can be summed up as the distillation of, the creations of, generations of Imperial chefs over almost a millennium. . . .

By 1271 with the arrival of Kublai Khan Beijing was made the center of the Empire, importing elements and influences from a variety of sources; amongst them was the Mongolian influence – lamb roasting and the Hot Pot. Each province throughout China provided the Capital with ingredients. Shandong (as the birthplace of Confucius generally being regarded as the oldest) was one of the most important agricultural producers, with numerous fisheries and farms which supplied Beijing with most of its food. Tianjin its capital is a treaty port, resulting in the added influences from the Russian & Japanese.

Now you tell me how all that could not result in a cuisine that is varied and delicious. It's also one that encourages the attitude of, if you don’t like that dish, there are a 1,000 more to try!!!

Ready to cook our lunch

Pulling noodles with chicken and vegetables, at The Hutong cooking school

The ancient Chinese kept pigs and grew millet, wheat, barley, rice and fermented their grain to make alcoholic beverages. Around 1100BC they added Soya bean which was soon followed by soy sauce and bean curd (tofu). . . . .

Element fresh, Sanlitun smoothie - kiwi fruit, orange and blueberry. Ice-cream bomb.

Now 2011, there has been the introduction of fast food and dairy outlets: potato chips, smoothies, hamburgers, ice cream, pizza and various variations on numerous Western/European themes. (Not to mention, diabetes and cardiovascular disease)

- Liulichang street tea house. Buddhas tears tea and clear vegetable & noodle soup.

So yes it has taken a few years, but you have to agree that the influences to date have produced some extremely delicious and varied meals of which we have sampled, Peking duck, Mu Shu Pork, lamb and scallion, Mongolian Hot Pot, Sweet and sour fish, drunken empress chicken, Sichuan pepper with green beans, steamed dumplings, noodle soup, chips with ketchup, pizza, mango smoothies, cold stone ice-cream - with numerous add ins, and hot candied apple & strawberries ... to mention but a few. Oh! And deep fried scorpions.

Chinese chicken Hot Pot - and it was very HOT!

So in this cosmopolitan city we have discovered that there is never a shortage of variety.

It is never boring.

2011 Drawing in Beijing

While Bri is away I am finding things to do . . . .
I decided to take myself off for Life Drawing classes, something I have not done for YEARS.
I emailed The Hutong and booked a session for myself and Brianna when she returns. My first class will start at 7.30pm.
I walked out of my apartment building not knowing which way I was going.
I stood on the side of the road with a copy of the address and hailed a taxi. At this point, the idea that a detailed map of Beijing would be a good idea, crossed my mind.
I was lucky to have a young man take sympathy and without a shared langue manage to explain to the driver where I wanted to go, and to have a driver who was honest, friendly and able to drop me close to the train station. Exiting the train, I found myself standing on the side of a major cross road, not knowing which way to go, until a nice young man took pity on me and without any verbal communication directed me to the hutong entry.

It is so very easy to get lost in the warrens that are the Hutongs

Being early I stopped at a cafe, Grandmas Kitchen, for apple pie and coffee. Yah!, not your usual Chinese fair, but something left over from the French, which I certainly appreciated .

Finally I arrive at the door for The Hutong cooking and art center. A place founded by creative Australians who live in Beijing. There were a dozen individuals all from varied backgrounds. There were easels, a generous supply of great paper, charcoal and a male model from Finland. (He looked awfully familiar, but as he was naked I was not about to ask if we had met before.)

After 90 minutes we had a break. Red wine and lots of talking.

Then I had to ask.

(He  had modeled at BIA in Brisbane? Was travelling the world.) 

We did several 3 minute warm up drawings, a few 5 minute ones and then some that were 15 minute poses. Half time through the second half we had a break and I managed to talk to people from South Africa, Sweden, Mongolia and said Hi, to the other people attending.


The time went all too quickly. 9.30pm arrived and I was just feeling like I was finding my stride.
Now I was filled with trepidation . . . it was dark and I had to find my way out of the maze.

Looking hesitant, yet again! a young girl took pity on me and offered to walk me back to the main street. (I am so very thankful to all the generous souls I have encountered during my stay. I would have been so lost without them)
Standing on the side of the main crossroad I was not sure which way I was meant to go . . . so my beautiful young companion hailed me a cab, told the driver my address and waved me goodbye. Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou!

Arriving at my apartment complex, I did my nighttime shopping for water, fruit and bread, had an evening meal of pumpkin deep fried in egg white (like sweet chips with a crisp tempura coating), a mango smoothie . . . then made my way to my apartment.
It was a great introduction that confirmed my passion to draw. 

Once I reached my apartment I sat down and emailed to make further bookings. Will do some cooking classes and visit some markets and gardens.